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What is color build up? See how stylists handle color build up issues (Part2)

2024-08-14｜Lena

I didn’t dye my hair blue, so why is it turning green?" Color build up, particularly when unwanted green hues appear, is a common frustration. The previous article introduced what color build up is and which colors are prone to it. In this follow-up, we dive deeper into how to address color build up and the potential impact it may have on your next dye job.

Further reading: "What is Color Build Up? Can Bubble Dye Cover Gray Hair Without Causing Color Build Up? Here’s What the Pros Say (Part 1).

Catalogue

I. Do you need to bleach your hair again after experiencing color build up?

II. How do stylists handle color build up?

III. Easy at-home solution for color build up after bleaching

IV. What colors can you dye your hair after experiencing color build up?

V. Stylist information

Bella's blue hair color photo. Image source: Provided by Bella

Bella's blue hair color photo. Image source: Provided by Bella

Do you need to bleach your hair again after experiencing color build up?

When a hair color build up, it means the pigments have deeply penetrated the hair, making it difficult to apply new color evenly. To remove this "stuck" color, bleaching is usually necessary to strip the pigment. However, if your hair is too damaged or you prefer not to bleach again, Bella suggests allowing your hair to grow out and then cutting off the affected areas. This approach avoids further damage while eventually removing the unwanted color.

Before-and-after comparison using plant-based dye to correct color build up
Before-and-after comparison using plant-based dye to correct color build up
Before-and-after comparison using plant-based dye to correct color build up

Before-and-after comparison using plant-based dye to correct color build up. The red box highlights the area where color sticking occurred. Image provided by Bella.

How do stylists handle color build up?

If the color build up is due to overuse of bubble dye or dyeing with black or dark colors, there are two different approaches, Bella shares her experience on how to rescue hair in these situations. If the client arrives with black hair and it's not visually clear which parts have been covered in black, the stylist needs to identify the affected areas. If the stuck color is visible, the stylist can treat the specific areas accordingly.

After color build up, dyeing hair can result in uneven patches. Image source: Provided by Bella.
After color build up, dyeing hair can result in uneven patches. Image source: Provided by Bella.

After color build up, dyeing hair can result in uneven patches. Image source: Provided by Bella.

When the color build up is not visible to the naked eye, the entire head must be bleached first. As the color lifts, the stylist can identify the affected areas. The hair is then washed to prevent over-bleaching the natural roots, and the color build up areas are treated separately.

For visible color build up, only the affected areas are bleached, simplifying the process by skipping the full head bleaching. Once the color is removed, the remaining hair is bleached as needed.

Easy at-home solution for color build up after bleaching, use color depositing shampoo!

When your hair starts to fade and you notice color build up, but you haven't scheduled your next salon visit or your hair is too damaged for another bleach session, Bella suggests using color-depositing shampoo to even out your hair color during the transition period. However, it's important to note that this solution only works if your hair has already been bleached, as the color-depositing shampoo can only take effect on lightened hair strands.

During the hair care phase, use color-depositing shampoo to maintain color after bleaching and fading. Image source: Bella.
During the hair care phase, use color-depositing shampoo to maintain color after bleaching and fading. Image source: Bella.

During the hair care phase, use color-depositing shampoo to maintain color after bleaching and fading. Image source: Bella.

The previous article mentioned that color build up often results in algae green or dirty orange tones. You can easily address this at home by choosing a color-depositing shampoo that corresponds to the color you're trying to correct. For dirty orange (a warm tone), use a cool-toned shampoo like purple, blue, or milk tea. For algae green (a cool tone), use a warm-toned shampoo like pink or red. To simply neutralize yellow tones in your hair, use a toning shampoo like "White" to achieve a misty visual effect.

The hair ends turned algae green, revitalized using a color-depositing shampoo. Image source: Rin.
The hair ends turned algae green, revitalized using a color-depositing shampoo. Image source: Rin.

The hair ends turned algae green, revitalized using a color-depositing shampoo. Image source: Rin.

Bella shares exclusive tips for using color-depositing shampoo: To correct algae green to milk tea color, use 'Pink Lady' and 'Violet' shampoos. For correcting brassy orange to a muted gray effect, use 'Purple' or 'Rose Blue' to neutralize the color.

Do you also have color build up issues? Click here to see the toning products.

What colors can you dye your hair after experiencing color build-up?

After experiencing color build up and bleaching, your color options become limited. Lighter, more vibrant shades become difficult to achieve. For example, if your hair has a brassy orange tint and you want to dye it gray, your options are restricted to tones like milk-tea gray, purple-gray, or gray-green. Achieving light silver-gray is no longer feasible. Additionally, due to the multiple bleaching processes involved, it's crucial to focus on hair care to maintain the health of your hair.

After experiencing color build up, it's challenging to dye your hair with vibrant, unique shades.
After experiencing color build up, it's challenging to dye your hair with vibrant, unique shades.
After experiencing color build up, it's challenging to dye your hair with vibrant, unique shades.

After experiencing color build up, it's challenging to dye your hair with vibrant, unique shades. The rightmost example color is silver-gray. Image source: Bella

To prevent color build-up, one crucial tip is to avoid dyeing your hair black. This advice is echoed by many hairstylists and users on platforms like Dcard, emphasizing that black dye can lead to significant color retention issues. If you're already facing a color build-up problem, don't worry—consult a trusted stylist to explore possible solutions.

Still searching for the perfect salon? Check out MCG's partner salons across Taiwan

Stylist information

Komm-Bella 
Stylist's IG：@bella7682_komm

Further Reading