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官網下單指定門市取貨 滿$500免運費

滿$888贈送蛇年來運小方斗

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官網下單指定門市取貨 滿$500免運費

滿$888贈送蛇年來運小方斗

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官網下單指定門市取貨 滿$500免運費

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What is color build up? Does foam dye cause it? Here’s the stylist answer.

2024-09-19｜Lena

Many people bring photos of their favorite celebrities' hair colors to salons, wanting the same look. However, when the hairstylist explains that achieving the exact shade might cause color build up, it’s important to understand their reasoning. Color build up can prevent achieving the desired tone and lead to uneven color. Bella, a stylist from Mpalace in Taipei, offers insights into why this happens and how to avoid it, answering common questions about the issue.

Catalogue

I. What is color build up?
II. 3 major causes of color build up
III. Using foam dye
IV. What colors can you dye to return to black without build up?

Professional hairstylist - Bella

Stylist from Mpalace Leqing Salon - Bella

What is color build up?

Color build up occurs when the hair dye contains excessive heavy metals, which penetrate and coat the hair cuticle. This coating prevents new dye from properly absorbing during subsequent coloring sessions. Some might think that bleaching multiple times can remove the color build up, but even then, achieving a clean platinum color is difficult. As a result, hairstylist Bella emphasizes that color options become more limited after experiencing color build up.

Color build up often results in common colors being a dirty orange or algae green.

When bleaching hair, if the strands cannot lighten to a clean platinum base, it's often due to color build up
The strands have traces of algae green that cannot be completely bleached out.

Image 1 shows that even after two bleaching sessions, the hair couldn't be fully lightened; Image 2 shows strands with algae green that couldn't be completely bleached out. Image source: Provided by Bella.

3 major causes of color build up

1. Dark dyeing: Dark dyeing refers to highly saturated colors such as black, red, green, and purple, which are prone to causing color retention issues. Especially with black, it's rare to hear of a stylist recommending dyeing hair a deep black because the pigment particles in black are heavier, making it harder to remove from the hair.

2. Dye concentration: Similar to the concept of dark dyeing, the higher the dye concentration, the darker the color. So, to avoid this issue, it's important to communicate with your stylist about the desired concentration. Even if you want to dye the aforementioned colors that tend to stain, adjusting the concentration can help. Although the result may be lighter and fade faster, it will prevent stubborn color retention.

3. Frequent use of store-bought dyes: Many people opt for convenience and buy hair dye or bubble dye from supermarkets. However, without understanding the pH level of the dye or their hair’s condition, the color retention issue can be even more severe than when using darker dyes applied by a stylist.

Think carefully before using foam dye

Bella shares that many people with gray hair prefer to dye their hair at home. However, since it's difficult to apply the dye evenly on their own, they may accidentally overlap the dye multiple times on areas like the bangs or the front of the head. This often leads to severe color retention issues. Additionally, if bubble dye is left on for too long after bleaching, uneven patches of color retention can occur. As a result, the next time they dye their hair, achieving an even, attractive hair color across the entire head becomes difficult.

Prolonged use of bubble dye can result in uneven patches of color after bleaching

Prolonged use of bubble dye can result in uneven patches of color after bleaching, with color build up areas still clearly visible even after bleaching.

In addition to color build up issues, improper use of store-bought dyes can lead to more serious problems, such as hair breakage. Bella shared an example of a client who had previously undergone bleaching but, noticing regrowth at the roots, decided to use bubble dye at home to cover the newly grown natural hair. Unfortunately, this resulted in severe hair breakage after applying the dye. Bella explained that this happens because most people find it difficult to assess the condition of their bleached hair and whether it can withstand the alkaline strength of the dye they purchased. She emphasized, "If your hair is severely damaged, avoid using store-bought dyes. Bubble dyes are more suitable for people with natural, healthy hair."

The following three images show the same person after dyeing their hair blue-black three times. Bella explained that since this customer didn’t want to bleach the newly grown roots after the initial color faded, they opted to dye only the ends with blue-black. All three dyeing sessions resulted in normal fading without any color build up issues, and each experience showcased a beautiful and unique hair color. From the images, you can see the color difference between the newly grown natural hair and the bleached ends, creating a gradient effect without the noticeable "grown-out roots" look.

The same customer dyed their hair blue-black 3 times, Bella's ensured that there was no color build up issue
The same customer dyed their hair blue-black 3 times, Bella's ensured that there was no color build up issue

Image source: Provided by Bella.

The same customer dyed their hair blue-black 3 times, Bella's ensured that there was no color build up issue

What colors can you dye to return to black without build up?

Many people with previously bleached hair who dyed it in unique colors eventually want to return to black. However, as you’ve gathered from this article, dyeing hair a deep black is generally not recommended. So, what colors can you choose to achieve the look of black hair without causing color retention issues? Bella suggests trying "dark tea brown," "blue-black," or "purple-black." These shades give you the clean and pure appearance of black hair without the risk of color build up. If you’re set on choosing a highly saturated color, it’s best to have a thorough discussion with your stylist beforehand. A professional stylist will assess your hair's current condition to determine whether it can achieve a similar color without causing build up issues. Bella explains that color shades range from level 1 to 10, with lower numbers indicating higher concentration. For most Asians, natural hair is around level 3. Therefore, if you choose a color with a shade lower than level 3, it will almost certainly lead to color build up.

The following three images are: Image 1: Dark tea brown that doesn’t require bleaching. Image 2: Purple-black that doesn’t require bleaching. Image 3: Blue-black with only the hair ends bleached.

Dark tea brown that doesn’t require bleaching
Purple-black that doesn’t require bleaching

Image source: Provided by Bella.

Blue-black with only the hair ends bleached.

Stylist Information:
Mpalace Leqing Store - Stylist Bella
Stylist IG: @mpalace_bella
Mpalace Leqing Store Address: No. 6, Alley 7, Lane 72, Guangfu South Road, Da'an District, Taipei 106
Mpalace Official IG Fan Page: Mpalace IG

Further Reading: